The initial plan was to visit A-Ma Temple the day before. There was something emblematic about starting the tour in a spot so ancient, it even pre-dates the colony. It was a promising sequence. But then, given the proximity of Hotel S to the town center, walking distance (and common sense) prevailed. 

And, come to think of it, it made much more sense doing it before Taipa, which was our next target stop.

++++++++++

We arrived at least half an hour behind schedule. Due to a miscommunication with our bus driver, we were dropped off closer to Barra Station. On the upside, we got a glimpse of the newly-opened terminal and saw more of the Historic Center. Fortunately, it didn’t take us long to reach our intended destination. This was where we started our second (and last) full day. 

++++++++++

Perched on the foot of Barra Hill, A-Ma Temple was built in 1488 to honor the maritime goddess Mazu. Such is its significance,“Macau” is even said to be named after its location, “A-Ma-Gau” or “Bay of A-Ma”. It’s been around long before Portugal even planted its flag, catering to Buddhists, Taoists, and other folk religions. That fact that it still stands today, undamaged and functional enhances that sense of wonder. This year, even marks its 20th anniversary as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It took them long enough, but as they say: better late than never. 

Perhaps the St. Paul Ruins crowd already conditioned us, because the equally-thick A-Ma crowd no longer overwhelmed. Given, too, that it’s a place of worship, an air of solemnity enveloped the premises. Going through the Gate Pavillon was still a breeze, despite the volume of visitors. 

Exploring the complex entails going through a lot of stairs, which I did as much as our tight schedule could allow. The temple is divided into six major sections. Aside from the main entrance, there’s the Memorial Arch, the Prayer Hall, the Hall of Guanine, and the Zhengjiao Chanlin – Buddhist Pavillon. We only had time to check out the Hall of Benevolence, the oldest part of the temple, and the most easily accessible elevated portion.

Worshippers outnumbered the tourists as I reached the highest point. From there, the view of Barra was partially obscured by temple rooftops and towering trees. Nonetheless, it was a majestic sight and still worth the climb.  

In every trip, it’s always rewarding to pinpoint the destination’s heart and soul. In Macau’s case,  it’s this temple. Despite the heavy European leanings, there’s comfort knowing A-Ma still stands, serving as the region’s core, keeping the spirituality intact beneath the worldly exterior.  

++++++++++

Early afternoon came. So, it was time to cross the Macau-Taipa Bridge for late lunch.